PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAThis Mongolian barbecue restaurant is renowned for its “Victory Feast”, a unique banquet style of dining that has its origins in the period of the Mongolian warrior Kublai, grandson of Genghis Khan. For twenty years, Adelaidians have been feasting in this way – in a dining room decidedly more comfortable than the 13th century conditions under which the Mongolians ate. In stark contrast to those cold Asian plateaus, the decor here is warm but old-school with Claret-coloured paper napkins tucked into drinking glasses. A set price allows you to eat as much as a warrior-sized appetite requires.
Begin by selecting ingredients from a refrigerated cabinet. The display is plainly practical with the focus on freshness as opposed to aesthetics. Chicken, pork, lamb, and beef are sliced paper-thin; vegetables are snapping fresh. Compliment these with a teaspoon of spice from individual bowls – or experiment by mixing several together on your plate. There are sauces (parsley, soy, ginger and garlic) and oils (sesame, chilli and “very hot” pepper), as well as condiments such as cooking wine, sugar water and vinegar. Hand your bowl of goodies to chef Chuong Ho and it will be ready to devour in about 30 seconds. The Mongolians barbecued their food on metal war shields; Ho will cook yours on the “conqueror’s grill” – a 400 degree smoking hotplate fashioned in the shape of the original shields. The warriors tossed their food with slim tree branches; yours will be manoeuvred with giant chopsticks inspired by those branches. On busy evenings things really heat up, but don’t be overly concerned about the wait. Ho is backed up by son, William, whom he is grooming to take over as boss of those giant chopsticks.
Roz Taylor, January 2008